For the last big adventure of my journey, I headed south to the lush, pristine rainforest of Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula. Bye-bye lazy beach days; hello day-long jungle hikes.
Jungle Hostel outside of Puerto Jimenez.
From Dominical, I took a couple bus rides to Puerto Jimenez. Feeling queasy after a windy road through the mountains down to the small town, I plopped myself down on the bus station bench to settle my tummy. As I asked my BC travel companions if they had done their homework–finding a hostel they liked–a lovely man invited us to stay in his hostel. Described as quiet and rustic, with recently acquired electricity in the communal area, we quickly looked at each other to swap opinions, found immediate consensus, gratefully accepted and hopped into the back of his truck for a bumpy ride. You see, we left Dominical in a rather rushed fashion and didn’t have any plans in this new town, but upon arrival, we knew it would be more comfortable to be outside of this loud rough-looking town.
You get really good at gauging people after being on the road for a while.
At $14/night the hostel was indeed one of the most rustic I’ve stayed at. It was perfect. We used coolers to keep our yogurt cold and headlamps and a log sidewalk to get to the outdoor showers. I will surely miss the jungle view when I am brushing my teeth in my cooly lit bathroom in the city. Our cabin had no walls and two wood bunk beds with nets, which were a necessity. Falling asleep to the sound of insects, birds and monkeys was certainly a special treat. If only nature had a volume nob though!
Corcovado National Park, near Los Patos ranger station.
We travelled to the Osa Peninsula to hike in Corcovado National Park. Reputed to be hot, humid and bug-ridden, people kept asking us if we were seriously up for it. We simply replied that Canadian women are a special species and yes, of course, we were up for it. In addition, our mandatory and very expensive guide would undoubtedly keep us safe from pumas and poisonous snakes, frogs and spiders. All the surprised looks did have me a bit worried though.
Super old tree.
Our three-day trek started at 5am with the most extreme off-road taxi ride through streams and jungle to the beautiful and remote Los Patos ranger station. The ride definitely foreshadowed what was waiting for us. Along our 22 km inland walk through primary jungle, which as I learned means that it has never been cut down and is rare, we gawked at cool trees, searched for birds, colourful bugs and animals like anteaters and monkeys, of course. I also learned that it’s quite easy to spot monkeys because they throw food at you from the tree-tops.
I’m still not sure if I’m tick-free…
While this hike was not that intense because we weren’t climbing a mountain, the heat and humidity did present a challenge. Another element that I wasn’t used to is ticks. They are alive and well in this part of the world. Also, as those who have been following this blog know, I didn’t bringing hiking boots. If someone is travelling to Corcovado specifically to hike, bring your boots… No brainer. I made due but proper boots would have been a great help with the continual game of hopscotch on rocks and roots, climbing over and under logs and river crossings, which are a balancing act.
While making sure to take in everything and not just focusing on putting one tired foot in front of another, I took a deep breath in. It smelled amazing. I thought to myself, “wow, it smells like a spa here.” I quickly laughed; spas emulate the natural smells of the jungle and not vice versa! Oh, city girl. I think I was smelling humid eucalyptus. Fun fact: citronella also comes from the jungle.
Most unsuspectingly beautiful smelling flower.
Arriving at our destination before sunset was a welcomed achievement. The Sirena ranger station, located close to the ocean, in a clearcut area, with a landing strip for supplies and those who perhaps don’t have time to hike in, would be our home for two days. It even had showers! Sleeping in a tent at the ranger station was also an experience. While I’ve been sleeping in the jungle for a few months now, sleeping in a tent in the middle of a protected rainforest is another story. Needless to say, I didn’t get much sleep over my two nights there, but did get to do some fantastic stargazing.
Wake me up when the sunrises; I found a good sleeping log.
The following day was comprised of a series of walks along the trail system around the Sirena ranger station, starting with a 5am walk in the dark. The howler monkeys were howling in full force. They aren’t annoying when you’re not trying to sleep and are actually seeking them out. They let out a rather scary sound for such small creatures; it’s rather reassuring when you get to see how cute they are. Although I was ready to pack up and race to a bed after the first sleepless night without a mattress and ridiculous heat and humidity, I’m grateful that I got to see a sunrise with a rainbow and all and a sunset in one day.
Morning walk about to La Leona ranger station.
Our hike back to La Leona ranger station on the third day started even earlier, but really, waking up at 3am is really not a big deal when you’re not sleeping anyway. We had to leave early to beat the heat, but most importantly, to beat the high tide that would make the rivers we needed to pass through unfordable. This 19.5 km stretch was my favourite portion because it was on and off of the beach. Lots of diversity for this busy mind. Along the beach we saw all sorts of paw tracks and of course another beautiful sunrise. Once the sun rose at 6am, it was already hot out, and I was grateful for the refuge of the forest’s canopy every once in a while. Our walk was on a flatter terrain and was graced with fresh coconut and bananas and a well-deserved break in the shade by a river. We even saw the skeleton of a humpback whale reconstructed near the beach (my closest whale-sighting this trip).
The hike was extremely rewarding. I saw nature very up close and got to learn firsthand some of the intricacies of the jungle. Searching for animals and bugs in their secret hiding spots was kind of like snooping through someone’s underwear drawer to find their little idiosyncrasies. You’re not really supposed to be there and it’s a little dangerous, but it’s very neat!
Sunset from Sirena Ranger station on our first night.
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